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TRAINING 

AND 

CARE OF COLLIES 



DEDICATED TO BREEDERS 
AND TRAINERS of AMERICA 



FOURTH EDITION 

Circulation 10,000 Copies 



ff ^' Copyrignted iqi6 by 

E.WROGER5, Dundee, MicK. 

Proprietor of 

Dundee Collie Kennels 



fFR V4 1916 



C1,a'426534 






°ii6 




4^ / • 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



PREFACE 

In giving our work to the public after nearly fifty years of experience 
in importing, breeding and caring for collies, of which we have made a 
specialty up to a few years ago, when we also trained Bull Terriers, Blood- 
hounds, Bob Tail English Sheep Dogs, Boston Terriers, as well as mongrels 
of all descriptions, we have endeavored to put the fruit of this experience 
in as few words as possible to convey the full meaning; therefore we are 
not filling up this book with advertisements, which we could easily do and 
make the book much larger. 

Among all animals, the dog seems to be pre-eminently intended by 
nature for the companion and friend of man. Even the instinctive desire 
all animals have for their kind appears to be, in a measure, sacrificed to 
human influences; for, the dog often cares more for the society of man than 
for that of his species. Not only is the dog a true and valuable friend and 
associate of man, but the companionship between the human and the canine 
races develops in the latter many of the noble qualities not possessed under 
other circumstances. A well trained collie is not only a much better and 
more useful companion, but the act of training brings out the latent intelli- 
gence and improves the looks. Not only improves the collie, but also binds 
more closely the ties of affection between him and his owner. And last, 
but not least, it improves the owner by bringing him in closer touch with 
nature. 

The main thing to teach is to train without abuse, and to do so in the 
shortest and most humane way. To train the dog to be useful as well as 
ornamental. As a foreword, avoid too much doctoring; many remedies 
advertised to cure diseases are of little value. Although they may appar- 
ently cure the disease, they have a tendency to leave the dog's stomach, 
bowe's and kidneys in such poor shape that the animal had really better be 
dead. Remedies recommended here are for the most common diseases, 
and the few advertised we believe to be of the best. Nearly all we have 
given a thorough trial with excellent results. 

I have imported a number of collies and bought a good many dogs 
imported by others. 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



Although having been a breeder and trainer of collies for a great many 
years, knowing now that I can train any collie no matter how vicious, timid 
or spoiled, I feel incompetent to write upon this subject, so little do I know 
in comparison to what is to be known. In the animal kingdom we are 
daily coming into contact with points we do not understand. The more 
one sees the less they think they know. 

A good many professors and writers claim a dog has nothing but in- 
stincts, but this is a great mistake. When a dog can take distinct orders 
and execute them, he is using thought as well as judgment. When a man 
is on a building and starts to fall, he grabs before he thinks. This is an 
example of instinct. 

I started training collies when I was 1 6 years old, and at that time I 
used a whip a good deal in training. This, on my part was very foolish. 
The idea of one using their muscles instead of their brains! Science as 
well as experience have done away with the whip. In fact there is very 
little difference between strychnine, whips or revolvers. They are all dan- 
gerous articles and never should be resorted to except in very extreme cases. 
Today there isn't one whip used where at one time there were hundreds. 

It was a common occurrence when I was a boy to see balky horses. 
Now I haven't seen one for a quarter of a century, or even a runaway. 
One can not train a horse or a dog with a whip and really do it successfully. 
To prove to you that whips are of no use in training I am going to recite 
a little incident which occurred to me several years ago. 

A neighbor and myself had occasion to drive to a village several miles 
away, and while driving there we came to a railroad crossing upon which 
was an engine belching steam and making all manner of noise calculated 
to terrorize any timid animal. My horse was quite frightened, but I im- 
mediately got out of my buggy and went to his head and began petting and 
talking to him. In a few minutes he gained confidence and passed the ob- 
stacle without any effort or attempt to become excited. My friend decided 
that he would master his horse by force. For as he said, "Any animal he 
had would have to go where he wanted them to." So he took out his whip 
and drove his horse up to the engine. The poor animal was between two 
fires; terror of the whip behind him and of the engine in front. The sequel 
of this story proved that my way was better, for on our return, when we 
came to the same crossing, my horse passed without hardly a tremor, while 
his, remembering the former experience, became panic stricken, overturned 
the buggy and broke things up in general. A short time after my neighbor 
sold him for really less than he was worth, simply because he had lost 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



control of him. I ask the reader to decide for himself which was the 
humane way, my neighbor's or mine? 

Love, experience and patience are the three essential requirements in 
training animals, while the three things to overcome are selfishness, vicious- 
ness and treachery. If you want your dog to learn easily, cultivate a love 
for him. This commands the respect of the dog and his co-operation with 
your efforts to teach him. When you meet your dog in the morning, say: 
"Hello, old fellow," with a smile, and give him a good roughing over in 
the way of petting him. Try this for a week and note the progress you 
make in gaining his confidence. Never put yourself above your dog. Trust 
him as you would a friend if you expect him to trust and obey you. This 
takes away his timidity and excites his interest, and in no other way can 
this result be gotten with either man or beast. I willingly confess that dogs 
have taught me more of character, fidelity and genuine affection than I 
have ever taught them. 

The will power of a dog is a great study. I have often seen little dogs 
overpower larger ones by this power. Some writers claim that a snarly pup 
in the cage with a young lion will master the lion when grown up. Study- 
ing the will power seems to be an endless study when studying the expres- 
sion; in fact they are parallel subjects. It is amusing to study the expres- 
sion of pups while eating. The best way to do this is to feed them on a 
large box 4 feet high and see the expression going from one to the other 
so quickly that it can scarcely be caught. This is their language. By 
studying it one can tell which is the boss of the litter. It may be the 
smallest; and one can tell which is going to be the timid pup as well. Dogs 
give a clearer expression than pups, and it is much easier to read their 
thoughts. They think quicker, the same as human beings. 

Note the humiliating expression of a dog when found guilty of some 
misdemeanor. Take a dog out of a warm room when there is a storm out- 
side and note the expression he gives; in so many words he seems to say: 
"Isn't there any one in this room that wants me to stay?" I have often 
worked collies that told me by their expressions that they did not feel like 
working, yet they did it to please me. A dog has times when he feels bad, 
just the same as a person, especially the older, ten years old or thereabout. 
Note the expression of a female when she has pups a week old when you 
ask her to go out and help you in the field. She will say in so many words, 
"I don't want to go, but will do so to please you." When you call her and 
tell her by name, you can go now, we have got through with you, see the 
expression she gives you before she starts for her loved ones, and the speed 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



she makes shows love, thought and judgment. This may look foolish to 
a good many, but after you have made it a study for a iew years you will 
find an unlimited field. My first lesson in expression was when I gave a 
little child a present. I gave it without any selfishness or obligation from 
the child. I never could have seen this expression hadn't I given it in the 
right spirit; see the glow of the eye, the smile on the face, motions of the 
hands; in fact the whole body gives thanks. My reward was a hundred 
fold, which opens the way to happiness and progress. It is an absolute 
fact that dogs think and reason, and they are away ahead of human beings 
in expression and will power. In fact, they are our teachers, and they 
can often read our thoughts. If in doubt as to this, go into any kennel 
where there are 25 or 30 collies when you are or have been recently in 
bad temper. You will find that every dog over six months old is watching 
every movement of your eyes and observing you with distrust. Some times 
men who do not like dogs come to the kennel out of curiosity, and the 
dogs always know this before the kennelmen. How do they know this if 
not by some mental process made manifest by their expression. 

The first step a novice should take before training a collie is to govern 
himself. When he has his own temper under control as well as his will 
power let him buy a good, sensible collie with a head not over ten and 
one-half inches long. Study disposition, characteristics, expression and 
will power. Here is a very fine field for study and experiment as to 
changing the disposition of a vicious dog to one of gentleness, or the char- 
acteristic of a herder of sheep or cattle to those of a retreiver or money 
changer like Bozzie. All dogs have sulky times, and should never be 
trained at this time. The neglecting of this rule causes the spoiling of a 
good many dogs. When you find the dog sulky tie him up in a quiet place 
and let him sleep it off. It will usually take about 24 hours, after which 
he will come out bright and cheerful, and the trainer can handle him suc- 
cessfully. Not long ago we took a bull dog and bull terrier to train. 
Both were quite vicious, especially the bull terrier, and the first few days 
we had all we could do to keep them apart. I led one around the yard 
while the other was tied up, when they would bark and brussle up ready 
for a fight in any second. All this time I kept talking to them, exercising 
my will power over them, as the owner wanted them trained to ride in a 
buggy or automobile together. I took the bu!l terrier into the kennel, tied 
him up, brought in the bull dog, and sat down on a chair, where the dogs 
could be but a few feet apart. The bull terrier flew around in great efforts 
to get away; the bull dog stood his ground. I talked to them the same as 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



I would to a child; when they barked at one another I scolded them; 
however, this wasn't the first time I had given them a talking to. Both 
knew what it meant before we came to this. I admit I was a little timid 
in trying this experiment, as I knew nothing about this breed of dogs, and 
to accomplish the object sought for I must not show any timidity in my 
eyes, giving a quick expression, etc. The dogs catch this as quick as a 
flash, and I knew that the will power was my only chance, so I discarded 
all fear and went at it the same as I would ordinary work, not acting quick 
or impulsive, but slow and easy. The second time I did this work I 
could see I was gaining ground. The first time I could scarcely tell which 
predominated, the dogs or myself. We were both fighting a battle, not 
with muscles; but no thought entered by mind of giving up, and I am 
sure they had the same thought, as their expression and motions proved. 
Two weeks from that time I took their picture side by side without the 
slightest sign of any challenge. Nearly every day I had them jump into 
my buggy side by side, and quite often I would take them for a ride, and 
no two children ever enjoyed this more than they did. None of this time 
did I ever use a whip. When one is practicing will power you don't want 
anybody around. No dogs barking outside. You want it perfectly quiet. 
This is meant for the trainer as well as the dog. If any excitement is 
caused a good deal of your work is lost. Never make any attempt at using 
will power when you are not feeling well, as you can not put your full will 
force into the work; and never attempt it after being out of temper, for 
at least 24 hours, for you show in your eyes a domineering or repulsive 
expression; neither do you want to do this when the dog has had a scrap. 
One is just as fatal as the other. Never think of feeding them while you 
are training ,as this creates envy and jealousy. Both these are also quite 
fatal or very much so, as it will take sometimes weeks to get them back to 
normal. A dog makes more use of will power than man, therefore they 
are better posted. No man can train a vicious dog without studying will 
power first, and the proper way to do this is to go into a building where 
there is a vicious dog tied up and set down beside him, allowing no fear to 
come into your countenance, or in other words, banish it and hold yourself 
rigid and talk to him. If your will power is the stronger he will cease 
his barking and growling and will come up to you slowly and with measured 
steps. Keep your eyes on his. None of this time make a quick move in 
any way, if you do you will get bitten, as excitement gives the provoca- 
tion. When he comes up to you you can put your hands on him with per- 
fect safety. Not many years ago one of my neighbors had a very vicious 



8 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

dog. I went to call on him and was just opening the gate when he called 
me and told me the dog was loose and would bite. I told him to keep 
quiet and I would see to the dog. As quick as I entered the gate he stood 
brustling up, showing his teeth. I sat down on the grass, and as I did 
so I called the dog by name. "Colonel, we are going to be good friends." 
In a few minutes I had him rolling on the grass beside me with perfect 
safety. Mr. Smith remarked that he would have bet $500 that I would 
have been bitten. The secret of all this is putting yourself on a level with 
him and using will power. At another time there was a very vicious bitch 
sent here. Parties wrote me she was very ugly to strangers. When she 
reached the station Mr. Rankins, the express agent, phoned me he had a 
very vicious dog and wanted me to come right away, and as I could not get 
away at the time, he took her to the express office, but telephoned me 
again, saying that he was afraid she was going to get out of the crate. 
This spread like wildfire and caused quite a crowd to gather. When I en- 
tered the office I called for a pair of pliers and cut the wire, at the same 
time throwing my coat onto the crate, and soon raised the lid and took her 
out with perfect safety. It was a great curiosity for the bystanders. The 
secret of all this, or nearly all of it is, I wore the same clothes I handle my 
dogs with, and as quick as she got the scent she knew I was a friend to 
dogs. I say to my readers, never attempt this in a crowd without you do as 
I did, as you are sure to be bitten. I could go on and enumerate a good 
many of these instances, but suffice it to say it is uncalled for, as nearly 
all trainers have the same experience. I want to say to my readers that I 
did not get the experience without being bitten. Many a stubborn pet 
I have nursed by the teeth of a vicious dog. Nearly all of this was through 
ignorance of the principles I later adopted. The above experience caused 
me a good deal of annoyance and worry of both mind and body, afraid of 
the different diseases I might catch, which caused me to use disinfectants 
freely, and I have never had any bad effects. At this time I could see 
nothing but the outside of the dog, as one might term it. I knew nothing 
of the sweet dispositions, affections, fidelities and a good many other prin- 
ciples I might enumerate in favor of the dog. I found that I was taking 
steps downward, when I ought to have been progressing. No man gets 
out of patience without it affects his body and mind. No man whips a 
horse or dog without paying for it in feed and doctoring and trouble, to say 
nothing of the degradation which he is apt to fall into unconsciously. 

A question very often asked me is, "Which is the better, a dog or bitch, 
for work?" If I was to keep but one dog it would be a spayed collie bitch; 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



they are cleaner, smarter, and, I think, more affectionate. A spayed bitch 
or castrated dog are just as good as any, providmg they are fed properly, 
to keep them from getting too fat. Starchy foods should be avoided; 
sweets might be included, when they will be just as active as though they 
had never been operated upon. 

In all my experience in collies we have had but very few vicious ones 
in the hundreds we have trained. I don't think this number would exceed 
ten. In handling these, one must take the same precaution as you do with 
a bull dog or bull terrier, and never attempt to work him on stock until 
you have perfect control over him by will power, otherwise the blood will 
run freely when put to work on stock. 

How to stop a dog from runnmg out at automobiles and rigs. Some 
one in the rig should have an ammonia gun loaded with water mixed with 
cayenne pepper. One shot of this in the eyes is a sure cure, with no harm 
to the dog, to my knowledge. I have never known of a second application 
being needed. 

To stop a dog howling or barking nights, which is very disagreeable 
to neighbors, in fact all within the sound, tie a bell in the same building 
where the dog is kept, and a string to the house attached to the bell, and 
every time he barks or howls, jerk on this string. Very seldom do you 
have to jerk on it more than one night. There is something about a bell 
that a dog dislikes. 

A good many dogs, especially collies, are poisoned yearly by neigh- 
bors who can not sleep from the continual barking, and this rule with the 
bell has always worked. This makes good neighbors. There is nothing 
that irritates a person so, if he can not sleep, as a barking dog. 

To keep dogs away while bitches are in heat one should have a good 
sized yard of about an acre or more, with a good strong fence. In the 
center of this inclosure he should have another yard, with building for a 
bitch in heat. This allows the scent to pass away without being caught. 
Another good way is to put them up in a building six feet from the ground 
and the scent also passes away without being caught, otherwise you will be 
pestered with eight or ten dogs, and some times more than that. We have 
never been bothered with dogs hanging around since adopting this plan. 

To prove that a dog thinks (it matters not how well he is fed), 
give him a piece of bread or meat, and he will go away and hide it and 
bury it, and will repeat this a number of days; when it has gone through 
the decomposition stage to suit his taste — which is usually ten to fifteen 
days — he will dig it up, not forgetting any one of the pieces. Stand beside 



_I0 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

him when he is digging the hole and he will pick up the meat and look up 
into your face as much as to say, "Leave me alone, I want to hide and bury 
this," and will mope off to some other place of burial. After he gets the 
hole dug, he will look around to see if any one is looking, and when he is 
satisfied that no one sees him, will bury this piece of meat. Is this not 
evidence of thought? 

Training a spoiled collie is like teaching a balky horse to pull, and the 
utmost precaution must be taken not to allow the voice to go above the 
usual pitch, and above all avoid the use of the whip, as whip, whiskey and 
strychnine are good servants, but bad masters. Our way is to take the 
spoiled collie into a small yard with a few sheep. At first he will try to 
leap the fence or crawl through. Not being successful, he will soon go to 
work. When he does as you wish, do not forget to caress him. After 
working this way a week satisfactorily take him into a pasture that is well 
eaten down. Tie a strong cord, twenty or thirty feet long, to his collar, 
and to the other end fasten a light stick two or three feet long. This 
should be tied in the center. If he attempts to get out of the field, this 
stick will stop him, or keep him from running away. Some collies will only 
run away once, where others will run three or four times. At these times 
do not let your temper get the best of you, when brought back you can see 
that he looks guilty, and has not done as he should. When he finds he is 
not going to be whipped, he will settle down to business and you will soon 
have him under subjection, and you can scold him a little, but be very 
cautious at this time. Be sure to keep the cord on him for a month. This 
running away, when sent after stock, is one of the worst habits a dog can 
have. 

Another very good rule is to tie the above collie to a trusty trained 
dog's collar, not having the cord over three feet long. 

Of course, a balky horse or a spoiled collie can oftentimes be made 
to pull or work by severe lashing, but any such practice is absurd, and only 
furnishes employment for humane officers. We oftentime train our animals 
to bad habits, unconsciously, then condemn the animal. 

Every true fancier of any breed ought to give out his experience in 
breeding, feeding, doctoring, showing and training, regardless of friends or 
critics; he should be a trainer if he would know how to judge a class of 
dogs in which the collie is the most neglected, considering his intelligence 
and sagacity. We have seen collie dogs made champions, without re- 
deeming qualities, aside from head and ears. We have seen others made 
prize winners that could not round up a flock of healthy wethers in a half- 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES IJ 

mile run because of lack of good strong loins. Other prize winners that 
did not have ambition enough to see a live chicken in the ring. A third 
prize winner in same class showed up two to his one in points of expression, 
activity and intelligence, his owner leading him from the ring, mum as his 
inner thoughts of the injustice done him. Is not this progressing backward? 

Breeders who have been in business during ten years should know the 
points of a collie dog quite as well as the show judges of today. I may 
add that no judge should ever handle but a single breed, and should be able 
to give the points each scored. If not able to do this, what good is he 
under our standard. What good is a collie judge for pointers and setters 
if he has never shot over one? Who are the collie judges of today? Many 
of them have never owned a good collie, to say nothing of having trained 
one. Think of an eleven (11) inch head for a worker, either setter, 
pointer or collie, and is as reasonable on one as the other. The collie of 
a few years ago was the result of careful selection carried on through a 
long term of years, by our Scotch ancestors and trainers, and to sacrifice 
this type for Borzoi or Russian Wolfhound is robbery. Turn back to the 
compact, useful, intelligent, sagacious animal found in Eclipse, Scotilla and 
others of their time, compare them to the long, lathy collies of today, and 
you see the future. Since they tell us that in-breeding destroys vitality, 
intelligence and activity, what of the seven-eighths of our collie breeders 
who are practicing this today to produce winners, without regard to the 
damage they are doing the breed? We have a number of collie breeders 
and trainers that are good judges, which they have proven to be, who know 
a collie from start to finish, and we breeders should patronize these judges, 
as also every sheep dog trial in this country, and by so doing we shall see 
our collie dog back to its former usefulness and value. 

We have studied collies during fifty years, in breeding, feeding, doctor- 
ing and training, have intended never to be second to any other man, have 
never found a vicious, timid or spoiled collie that I could not train to 
handle ducks, cattle, sheep or hogs, and when trained does the work with 
joy, not through fear. As to points of a collie I can tell by expression 
which will be most intelligent, vicious or timid, and which can be trained 
quickest. However, I do not intend to act as a judge, training is my spe- 
cialty. 

Why do tramps and dogs have such a mutual dislike for each other? 
If we study expressions in tramps we find a similarity which the dog soon 
learns. He is usually one year old before he can distinguish between 
tramp and other men. We often see men that dogs do not like, nine times 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



out of ten they despise the dog, and this is another proof of expression and 
thought. No one should attempt to train a dog until he has been with him 
three times a day during one week, at least, which will give both a chance 
for study, when the dog will train in one-half the time. 

The disposition of a collie is governed by the surroundings of the dam 
before the pup is born; this marking of disposition is not all, as they can 
be marked in color just as well, through aggravation, which never fails in 
black, white and sable; excitement and fright will sometimes do the same, 
but it is not as certain as aggravation. 

Many improvements can be made in a Collie while growing up. 
Crooked legs can be made straight if taken in time, by pressing between 
the hands every night and morning during a month's time. The high or 
gay tail can be weighted with wax and sand when two months old and kept 
so for one month. I have seen very short tails made perfect in this way 
and add $10 to $15 to value of pup. Another way is to crimp the tail with 
thumb and fingers, morning with the right hand, night with left hand; this 
will keep tail straight providing you do not crimp more with one hand than 
with the other; this is not necessarily a painful operation, but one that 
requires judgment and patience; have brought down tails when pups were 
five months old, and so slight was the pain that they cared nothing for it, 
and still the cure was going on. Another great improvement is in ears, 
which can be made to stand erect and tip at points with but little pain if 
plenty of time is given; the smallest and best ears are the most obstinate 
and require the most skill and care. The first thing to be done is to cut 
the toe nails on the hind feet, which must be done in order to make a suc- 
cess, and all that is required is to remove the hooking points and file down 
smooth so they will not catch upon the ear; the next step with a pricked 
ear is to tip the point over so the outer edges are even on outside of ear, 
then with a pair of shears cut the hair where you wish the ear to break 
over, this gives a straight line to work on with the Tenatoning knife, which 
should pass through the inner and outer skin of the ear, this should be cut 
twice the width of the knife, so as not to leave a ridge when healed. An- 
other way is to insert a needle long enough to pass through the ear beneath 
the white streak on top of ear, then run two more needles on either side as 
near as possible and not touch, making in all five needles, and all should 
be pulled out just as soon as the last one is inserted, then with grafting wax 
stick the ear down to its place, and with hair pins with points bent outward 
to hold thread can be put astride the ear and fastened with thread to hold 
ear in position until war is dry, the hair pins should be changed once every 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES B 

hour, as it is quite apt to swell, the hair pins should be used until the hair 
is dry, and if ear is kept in this position for two months it will tip over 
in good shape. 

Another way of training the ear is by using adhesive plaster. If it 
buckles down to the side or tips too close to the head it can be raised up 
and made into a perfect ear, but before putting on the plaster commence 
rolling the ear, folding it back, then rolling it, then folding it front and 
rolling it; commence careful at first and not torture the dog, and in a little 
while the ear will get numb. The dog will not mind it when the ear will 
swell. This usually takes about half an hour for each ear, when you can 
put on the adhesive plaster. We use plaster an inch and a half wide, and 
some times put on an extra piece. This will set the ear up straight. We 
have had very good luck in putting adhesive plaster on the back part of the 
ear first, shearing off the hair as close as we could. As usual I would 
rather work on the inside of the ear, but there are cases when you can't 
get the same effect. In handling a pricked ear I have found in later years 
that grafting wax would tip them over in fine shape. I have tipped dogs' 
ears over after they were two years old that always had pricked ears be- 
fore. This wax should be made warm and the ear should be warm, too, 
so that it will stick. If you allow it to go pricked for an hour you have got 
weeks before you of doing the work over again. They should never be 
allowed to go pricked if you want to tip them. This dog I tipped the ears 
of after he was two years old, I kept the wax on his ears for nine months; 
after that he always had perfect ears. 

There is another way which is much more humane. Stick the ear 
down with wax and use hair pins same as above and work or roll the ear 
with thumb and fingers for one hour each day or until ear swells, this to be 
done for one hour each day or until ear swells, this to be done where you 
want ear to break. A loped or heavy ear can be brought up by working 
or rolling for two hours, until the ear is swelled quite badly, then with wax 
tip it back and stick it close upon neck and head, leaving it in this position 
for one month, when the ear will go pricked. 

For the benefit of those who buy trained collies from us we give the 
words we use in working them on sheep, hogs and cattle, which will make 
dogs feel more at home and they will work in one-half of time. 

We train them first in a yard 20x60 feet, second yard 15 rods square, 
and next and for finish in open field. The first thing we do in small yard 
is to send them around a box to the motion of the hand right and left, say- 
ing, "Go around it! Go around it!" When they have this learned, put 



H TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

in ten to fifteen sheep, saying to the dog, "Go around them! Go around 
them!" using the hand always. Should they drive too fast, say, "Steady! 
Steady!" holding up both hands, while with a fast driver, I hold up my 
hat. Should they not drive fast enough, spat your hands, saying, "Bring 
them up! Bring them up!" In driving away, I say, "Drive them up!" at 
the same time motion with the hand, then in case of wind you have them 
under control. In driving them I use the words ,"Come" and "Go" when 
sending away with a flock of sheep to turn a stake or tree 25 or 30 rods 
away. 

In working them on cattle or hogs I use nearly the same words, the 
change being, "Heel them up! Heel them up!" 

The chief requirements are patience and self-control. The golden rule 
is never to take up a second lesson, or trick, until the first is thoroughly 
practiced and mastered. Whipping the dog and shouting commands should 
not be allowed, except he has been spoiled and at the same time has a very 
vicious disposition. At this time, it requires the experience of an old 
trainer. Timid and shy collies are, like balky horses, easily made so 
through fright and mismanagement. This is always the fault of the owner 
and not of the animal. This fact can not be too firmly impressed on the 
mind. It is a fault and can be easily managed by taking advantage of 
their jealousies of which they all have a great amount. For instance, make 
pets of other animals and at the same time be gentle and kind. It usually 
takes about one month to cure this timidity. If treated harshly the dog 
becomes a sneak, and reflects discredit upon himself and trainer. In train- 
ing, speak gently in plain, distinct words, as you would to a child. The 
tone of the voice has much to do in the way of training. Always get well 
acquainted before you attempt to teach. When punishment is required, 
scold the dog or twist his ear. This is usually sufficient. He should never 
be corrected a long time after the offense. If you do this he will consider 
you a tyrant who punished him for nothing and then all hopes of training 
him properly will be lost. For no person can succeed in training unless he 
first teaches the dog to love and respect him. With this accomplished one 
has the dog under his control. Always keep in mind that they are dumb 
animals, and that they are here for our use and not abuse, the same as 
horses, if we cultivate their powers. 

Praise and caress after the work is done, not while it is being per- 
formed. 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



Never train while others are standing by. This causes confusion and 
is apt to make trouble. When corrections are necessary always make 
friends before parting. 

In buying stock, if one wants intelligence, get that whose sire and dam 
are trained. This fact ought not to be lost sight of, especially in the collie. 
If we look to show points and nothing more, they will surely degenerate. 

We are not writing this for an advertisement, but for the good of the 
dog, as there are many who breed from trained stock. 

It is now an established fact that all mark their young before birth. 
If any doubt this theory, let a bitch be irritated by other stock, while eating, 
a month before the pups are born and the writer will guarantee the pups 
will try to fight soon after their eyes are open. When one year old they 
are only safe when chained end muzzled. In this way of breeding, we 
make a sacrifice of a number of points which are very essential in the collie. 
In breeding to get the best results, work the dam two or three times a week 
on stock and let her surroundings be of the best, never allowing her to be 
scolded or frightened. This gives confidence, expression and intelligence, 
all of which are so much desired on the bench as well as in the field. 

Another question very often asked me is how to get more dog than 
bitch pups. My experience proves to me that the strongest predominates, 
whether it be in the animal or vegetable kingdom, all things being equal. 
Roy Reynolds, of Ridgeway, Mich., brought a bitch here to be bred. This 
bitch had any amount of work on the road and farm, and her muscles were 
very hard. In fact, she was in perfect health and strength. The dog we bred 
hard. In fact, she was in perfect health and strength. The dog we bred 
her to was in good health, but muscles nowhere near as hard. I told him 
at this time that he would have more bitches than dog pups. He laughed 
at me, saying that I was counting chickens before they were hatched; but 
I had the last laugh; when she gave birth to her pups she had eleven, and 
all bitches but one. I can cite a good many cases of this description, 
which proves the above assertion. 

A bitch runs sixty-three days after being bred. At this time she should 
have a large yard and be supplied with plenty of water, bones and grass. 
Her kennel should be away from other buildings where she can be kept 
quiet. Place in her kennel a box 32 inches long, 22 inches wide and 26 
inches deep with a little pine sawdust, or fine wheat straw. A few days 
before the bitch is due to whelp, wash her bag with some good disinfectant. 
This destroys the germs and causes less trouble with worms. We doubt 
whether pups are born with worms, as some writers claim. To prove this. 



]6 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

one can not find worms in a pup when born. But when a week old one 
can find them in abundance, and if a person will but observe bitches whose 
pups are the most troubled with worms, he will find them rolling on filth 
and carrion, which is good proof that the pups get them from the bag of 
the dam. 

Bitches that are bred should be kept quite poor the first month. If 
too fat the pups are apt to be small and weak. The second month the 
dog should have all she will eat up clean twice a day of good, nourishing 
food with frequent changes; also give a teacupful of milk, morning and 
night, with her food. This keeps her in good, healthy condition. We do 
not advise giving more than this, as it sometimes causes the bowels to be- 
come too loose, and if precaution is not taken at the time the pups are born, 
whole litters die in a few days, leaving the breeder in wonder. We do not 
condemn milk, as nothing can take its place, but the utmost caution must 
be used. The milk from Jersey cows is sure death to pups unless reduced 
one-third or one-half. 

Bitches should not have over six pups in one litter. Keep in mind 
the quality and not quantity. All true lovers of the collie would rather 
pay a good price for a fine specimen than to be hired to take a poor one. 
Breeders sending out good stock have a continual advertisement. To suc- 
ceed, the breeder should love his occupation. If he takes it up for money 
and nothing more, he is sure to make a failure. 

Care of Dam and Pups. 

When pups are first born, the dam should not be fed for 24 hours. 
At this time they need a watchful eye. Keep the nest as dry as possible, 
by mixing lime and buhach in equal parts. This absorbs the dampness 
and at the same time disinfects. 

If the pups cry and are uneasy, it is quite certain that they have colic. 
This may be caused by the dam not having the proper food. Sometimes 
a bitch running in cold water will cause this. When three weeks old, a 
good preventative is to give each pup five drops of vermifuge. At one 
month old, twice a day; at weaning time three times daily, and if milk is 
rich in butter fat, it should be diluted one-third or one-half. Do not feed 
cold milk until pups are three months old, at least, and all this time keep 
watch for worms. These have caused more trouble in our kennels than all 
other diseases. At weaning time, which ought to be at six weeks of age, 
the pups are passing through their most critical period. 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 1 7 



When treating for worms at this time we keep the pup twelve hours 
without food or water. Then give thirty (30) drops, or half teaspoonful 
of vermifuge. Do not feed for two hours after this treatment. To make 
sure, repeat in three or four days. 

Symptoms of worms are very numerous. We will mention a few of 
the most common: Water running from the eyes; a great appetite, yet 
losing flesh; colic, dry cough, offensive breath, bloating out of proportion 
to amount of food eaten, harsh cat, vomiting, diarrhoea, nose hot and dry. 

When six weeks old begin to feed crumbs of bread and crackers in the 
milk. Use care not to feed too heavy, as over-feeding stunts a pup more 
quickly than not feeding enough. In training we would rather handle two 
poor pups than one fat one. 

At six months we feed mush and milk twice a day and dog biscuits for 
a change. The latter are best for summer, since they are not so heating. 

At one year old, we feed the same as for old dogs: viz., one cup of 
milk in the morning and a good supply of mush and milk or biscuits at 
night. It is a good plan to alternate these and the mush and milk daily. 
The mush is made of clean wheat and corn (equal parts) ground fine about 
one-eighth tallow scraps. This should be well cooked. 

Pratt's Biscuits are also excellent for feeding, and keep the dog in 
good health and fine coat. 

Always keep a dog with a sharp appetite. This aids in training, as 
a dog overfed is dull, listless and inert. 

How to Train Pups. 

When three months old, give him a name and when he has this learned, 
put him into a small yard or room. Then let him get quite hungry. Offer 
him a small piece of meat. When he gets the scent of this, he will be quite 
anxious. At this time spat your hands together and say: "Speak! Speak! " 
The anxiety and excitement will cause him to bark, and every time he barks 
give him a little of the meat. A few lessons of this description and he will 
bark at the word. 

To teach him to He down press firmly on his head and say: "Lie 
down, lie down!" and when he has done so pet him and make him under- 
stand that he has done right. Repeat until he understands this command 
readily. At this age the pups are quite apt to learn to jump on one with 
their front feet, which is very annoying to a person having fine clothes. 
To break them of this, when they jump up take them by the front legs and 
step on their hind feet, giving them a good pinching. 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



How to Train to Walk Erect. 

To do this, stand the dog in a corner on his hind feet and hold him a 
few minutes, and then give him something to eat that he hkes. Repeat this 
for a week and he will usually stand alone. At this time, hold a piece of 
meat over his head and about one foot in front of him and at the same time 
telling him "Come, come," and he will soon be walking erect for something 
to eat. 

Housebreaking. 

This training of a collie commences at three weeks old by cutting a 
small opening in the side of his box so he can come out and evacuate at 
will. Always keep his apartments sweet and clean by using disinfectants. 
Housebreaking is very easy, if pups are properly cared for when young. 
This should be thoroughly learned by the time they are six months old. 
After they are trained to bark, take them into an old building and when 
they show signs of committing a nuisance, stamp your foot and at the same 
time say, "Bark!" They will then go to the door, when they may be 
allowed to go out. They will usually bark to go out after this. But, if 
the above is not sufficient, rub the nose in the nuisance. 

Teaching to Carry a Basket. 

In teaching this, the first lesson should be with a rubber ball. Throw 
it a short distance and order him to fetch it. Repeat this lesson until thor- 
oughly learned, and soon he will carry it around for you to throw it away 
for him. Substitute a stick for the ball and he will bring this the same as 
he did the ball. Now, place the handle of a small basket in his mouth 
and he will carry it quite as readily as he did the stick and ball. 

In this way you can send him with a basket to some person, who can 
call him by name and say, "Bring it to me." This will teach him to go 
and bring things that will help in the future training. Acts of this kind 
are numerous and it is unnecessary to mention them. The easiest time to 
teach this is when pups are about eight months old. 

Herding. 

The first step to teach this is to send him away from you. This should 
be done when eight or nine months old. Take him into a small building — 
12x30 feet ,or thereabout. Place on end a dry goods box. Send him 
around this, first to the right and then to the left. He should be trained 
a few minutes every morning for a week, or until he will obey readily a 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 19 

motion of the hand. Then place two or three ducks, or something that 
will move slowly, near the box. Send him around this box and he will 
find that he is driving, and is quite apt to go wild with delight, when you 
should have something to draw his attention. With a timid dog, we use a 
hat and say: "Hi! Hi!" "Steady, steady." Say it in a firm, distinct 
tone — a little on the scolding order for a vicious dog. Govern the voice 
by the dog. Training in this way, one can gauge the dog to drive fast or 
slowly. When you have him trained to go around the box and bring the 
ducks up, send him to the right and then to the left of the ducks and in 
this way he will get the idea that you wish him on the opposite side. This 
usually takes about two weeks. Then we place sheep in a small yard 
and go through the same operation. All that is required now is increased 
distance and practice. It is a good plan for a new beginner to chain the 
dog to a building with the sheep for a few nights before attempting to 
train. In this way the sheep are not so apt to be afraid and will move 
more slowly. This, too, gives the dog a better chance to understand your 
meaning. Never try to drive horses or cattle with a dog until he is fully 
one year old. If he gets kicked before this age, he is quite apt to go to 
the head, which spoils him as a heeler. When the dog is one year old or 
more and well trained, he can then be taught to separate one kind of stock 
from another. To do this, go to the field, call the stock you wish to separate 
and in this manner the dog learns to distinguish by the different call for 
each kind of stock, what kind is wished. A few lessons of this description 
and the dog will separate any kind at the word. 

Do not attempt to drive until well broken to herd, and this should not 
be done in the open field, but in the road or lane, and not until sheep are 
quite tired. At this time they will bunch up, which will make it much 
easier for the trainer. In driving, use the words "Go, Go," also "right" 
or "left," and at the same time motion with the hand, right or left, as the 
case may be. Sign language is very natural to a collie, and often proves 
to be very useful. In case of a windstorm, this will be a great assistance 
to the owner. 

To Train the Collie as a Watch Do£. 

Collies are usually the best of watch dogs, but should any prove to be 
cowardly, they can be trained to be watchful and ugly. Note the following 
instruction. First, chain him up, and feed him mostly on meat. Place him 
in a yard among pigs from two to four months old; feed the dog when pigs 
are hungry. This causes the pigs to squeal and there is nothing like it to 



20 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

irritate the collie. In this way he can be made so ugly that there is nothing 
safe within his reach. If one is not especially watchful, feed as above and 
shorten chain to two feet. Disinfect the clothing so he cannot catch the 
scent. After dark cover yourself with a robe and creep around on the 
hands and be sure to keep out of reach. There is nothing that will fight 
so well as a coward when cornered. Under no circumstances allow the 
dog to know that it his master in disguise. One lesson of this description is 
usually sufficient. 

Rules for Collie Field Trials. 

In giving rules for these, we will narrate them as told us by an old 
Scotch shepherd. In a circle of about two acres of ground seven stakes 
are driven. These are the same distance apart. On one side is placed a 
V-shaped pen, or yard, and in this are placed three sheep. The collie 
takes them out of this yard and drives them around the circle, outside of 
one stake and inside of the next one until he puts them back in the yard 
again. The collie that performs this work the most quickly takes the first 
money. These sheep are not allowed to be driven but once during the 
trial. Each exhibitor must have three new sheep for every trial. These 
are chosen by the judges. The trainer has a right to choose which stake 
he shall stand by during the trial. This, also, has a circle of ten feet with 
the stake as a center, outside of which he is not allowed during the working 
of the collie. 

Hovr to Cure Dogs of Running Around. 

This habit can be cured if persisted in, by losing them in the following 
manner. Take them around a square of a few miles. Cover their heads 
just before coming to a corner. Remove the covering after traveling ten 
or twelve rods beyond the corner. Use a little tar, sassafras or peppermint 
oil on the nose to destroy the scent. Dogs can be so bewildered in this 
way that they will not know their own home. The following story is to 
the point: A few years ago we took a dog, three years old, to train. His 
home was two miles away and he had often been by our residence. We 
lost him in the above described way. In the afternoon of the next day we 
let him go. In about four hours he returned very tired, not finding his 
home. We kept him three weeks thereafter, but he never learned the way 
home. 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 2^ 

The Place for a Dog. 

A dog's place, when he is not at work, is at the trainer's heels. A 
good way to teach this is to hitch him behind a buggy when going away 
for a drive of four or five miles or more. This distance is necessary to 
accustom him to travel in this manner. On the road, coming back, let 
him loose, but not until you have driven a mile or two on the return jour- 
ney. Usually he will make an attempt to go ahead of you. Say to him, 
"Come back," "Come back," and he will return to his place behind the 
rig. Again, if out walking, and he attempts to go ahead, request him to 
come back, and he will return to his old position. 

Diseases and Their Treatment 

Some claim that pneumonia can not be cured in dogs. This is a 
mistake, as I have brought them through in fine shape; however, the ut- 
most caution should be taken. We use a canvas coat that buckles or 
buttons underneath the body. This should run well up to the throat and as 
far back so that it won't interfere with the movement of the hind legs. 
The dog should be kept in the same temperature if possible, with no draft 
whatever. I wouldn't care for a warm building, I would prefer a cold 
one instead. This coat should be put onto them just as quick as you see 
they are laboring for breath, and a good blister back of each forward leg 
of Fowler's Solution of Arsenic. This should be three or four inches across. 
Fresh water should be before him at all times and he should be fed on 
soups altogether, with a little cayenne pepper put into the soup. We have 
given Perry Davis Pain Killer, a teaspoon three times a day with warm milk. 
We use a tablespoon in giving this. This warms up the system. You will 
not see much of a change for five or six hours. He should have a good 
wheat straw bed in a box three feet square and as many feet high, so that 
he can cuddle down and be comfortable. When you see the dog is con- 
valescing, wait a few hours, take the coat off and give him a good rub with 
a pair of gloves, not only on the body, but up and down the legs, get the 
circulation going just as quick as you possibly can, and just as soon as you 
are through put the coat on at once. I should do this once a day. This 
coat should not be taken off entirely for a couple or three weeks; when 
you do so you must take the utmost precaution, as a second attack might 
follow. Never allow him to have his feet wet or damp. Should the dog 
not eat give him a little elixir of Calcium Bark, Iron and Bismuth three 



11 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

times a day and be sure and keep his bowels open. We use half castor 
oil and strained honey, and often give an ounce of each at one dose. This 
should also be warm. 

Chorea usually follows distemper, and is often more noticeable, when 
dogs, just recovering from the same, become wet. They should not be 
allowed in the storm for at least two weeks after having distemper. Dogs 
suffering with chorea will snap and twitch their eyes. However, it usually 
effects them in the hind leg by twitching and jerking, and they will some- 
times drag their hind parts. At other times move more like a man who is 
intoxicated. This disease is claimed by a good many breeders as fatal. 
However, this is a mistake, as the writer has cured a good many cases. 
The first thing to do is to give one drop of Fowler's Solution of Arsenac 
in a spoonful of water in the morning and at night. Increase the dose one 
drop each day, until you have reached the twelfth day, at which time de- 
crease at the same ratio. If effected in the hind leg, shear off the hair on 
the back and anoint it with full strength of Fowler's Solution of Arsenac 
and give it a good rubbing. This will make a large blister. If effected 
in one front leg, treat in the same way. If effected in the head or eyes, 
shear off next to the occipital bone. This is a spinal disease and is the 
only way the writer has ever found of curing it. 

Distemper. 

We haven't had a case of distemper for a number of years, since we 
adopted the use of a powder put up by the Common Sense Remedy Com- 
pany, New York. 

This is a disease much dreaded by all breeders. If a pup is four 
months old and in good condition and has had proper care, there is but 
little danger. Draughts of air will usually prove fatal in this disease. 
Even cracks in a wall, though small, are dangerous. 

Symptoms: Sneezing, dry, husky cough, chills, loss of appetite, watery 
discharges from the nose and eyes, nose dry and hot, very great thirst, 
and vomiting at times. 

Treatment: The building should be draught tight, five or six feet from 
the ground. At one end of the building there should be a small opening 
for ventilation. Keep plenty of fresh, cold water to drink. Feed one 
teacupful of ice-cold sweet milk. This will keep up vitality and at the 
same time keep down the fever. In case the bowels become too loose, 
drop one feeding. If constipated, give a little castor oil with honey. At 
all times keep the bowels open. The patients should have a good bed and 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 23 

all filth removed. As the animal improves, give a little broth in small 
quantities, at intervals of two hours, until proper strength is restored. We 
have never lost a case since following this treatment. When the dog's 
nose ceases to run at the time of coming down, it shows he has caught 
cold and something must be done quickly in order to start it again. We 
know of nothing better than Clayton's Distemperine. When appetite fails, 
which it often does in this case, give a raw egg, night and morning. 

Dysentery. 

Many times dogs may be troubled with dysentery in mild or virulent 
forms. We have found a small quantity of cinnamon in a cup of scalded 
milk very beneficial. For bloody, or the more chronic cases the following 
may be given: First, give one ounce of castor oil. After the expiration of 
one-half hour, give five drops of fire-weed oil in a teaspoonful of warm 
water every two hours. We have also used Clayton's Diarrhoea Cure, 
which we would rather give, as it works more quickly and leaves the dog 
with more strength — a very essential thing in this disease. 

Eczema, or Mange Cure. 

Make a soup of cabbage, onions and potatoes. Put in one teaspoon- 
ful of sulphur, a few small bones, a little salt and pepper to make it palat- 
able. Give the patient all he will eat of this once a day. This should be 
made fresh each day. To equal parts of sperm oil and oil of tar in a quart 
add one teacupful of sulphur and rub well into the sores each day. Give 
the patient plenty of exercise. One week's treatment will cure the worst 
case. Do not use same nest without thorough renovation. 

Tapeworm. 

Dogs having tapeworms are not always poor. Yet, this is quite apt 
to be the case. When one has a voracious and depraved appetite, and will 
eat beyond reason at any and all times, it is quite positive evidence that he 
has tapeworm. Other signs may be breath offensive, nose hot and dry, the 
coat having a harsh, rough and dead appearance, the dog looking for and 
eating filth. 

Treatment: Give the dog a light supper. In the morning, give on an 
empty stomach, the following: Twelve to fifteen drops of the oil of male 
fern, well beaten in a half-teacupful of sweet milk, or a raw egg. In this 
put a teaspoonful of granulated sugar. In two hours give one tablespoon- 
ful Epsom salts in warm water enough to dissolve it. At the end of a week. 



24 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

if the dog has the same symptoms, repeat the same treatment. This, we have 
seldom found necessary. It is a hard matter to tell when one has succeeded 
in removing a tapeworm, as the head is sometimes very small. And the 
only time we are sure the medicine has done its work is when the dog's 
eyes cease to run and the patient improves in flesh. 

To Exterminate Fleas. 

These cause no end of trouble and disagreeable labor from June until 
To rid a dog of fleas there is nothing better than Kreso Dip, manu- 
factured by Parke, Davis & Co., Detroit, one part to seventy parts of water, 
made a few degrees warmer than blood. It kills every flea. It is a good 
plan to use olive oil around the head and ears before giving them a bath. 
This will drive them back on the body, and you are sure to get every flea 
on the dog. Before giving the bath all bedding should be burned and the 
boxes disinfected. This disinfectant should be warm. I like to have this 
quite hot, as I think it destroys the nits more readily. I use a spray pump 
for this. One can rid their kennels free from fleas in August, the worst 
month in the year, with two or three applications. We used to use a pow- 
der for pups to drive fleas away, but I find olive oil much better, and 
keeps the pup looking fine. At the same time it is the best thing I have 
ever found to grow coats. Olive oil is also good to keep fleas off. In fact, 
all grease will drive fleas away, but never use anything that will stick up 
the coat. In growing a coat on a collie I have tried a good many different 
medicines, but I have found nothing that equaled a good pair of leather 
gloves with plenty of olive oil twice a week. This takes out dandrufl' and 
dead hair without injury to the coat. However, this wouldn't do for parties 
who keep their dogs in the house. For those who have a number of col- 
lies I would advise one pound of concentrated lye, dissolved in one pint 
of water. In this pour in three pounds of sulphur and stir up well, three 
pounds of good soap and put in enough water and boil this soap into soft 
soap. Mix all of this with one gallon of kerosene, putting it into a 40- 
gallon cask, and filling this three-quarters full with warm soft water. 
It makes a fine wash, which also kills fleas. In using this in the winter time 
they should be dipped into cold water, so as not to catch cold, with a good 
run to get up circulation. This makes them very clean and pretty, 
cold weather. At least this has been our experience for several years. 
To rid a kenned or dog from fleas, first burn all the bedding; and, if pos- 
sible, keep the dog on a pine floor on which has been sprinkled half lime 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 



25 



and buhack, and all pups under three months old should also be sprinkled 
every other day for a week. All collies over three months old 
should be washed in some good disinfectant, which should be blood warm, 
every other day for a week. This kills all nits and fleas which may accumu- 
late. Pups over three months old and under six, should be rubbed dry 
with hot cloths. All of this work had better be done in the morning, so as 
to give them a run of a mile or two so as to warm them up and protect 
them from catching cold. Never wash them in warm water except to 
exterminate fleas. One must use judgment and take into consideration the 
:ondition of the dog, the thickness of his coat and the weather. Where a 
dog has access to plenty of cold water, they very seldom have fleas. 

To save a still born or chilled pup, or one that doesn't eat, put them 
nto as hot water as you can bear your hand. I have put them into hotter 
tvater than I could keep my hands in. A chilled pup should be kept in 
onger than the others. This usual'y takes about five or six minutes; then 
put them into a good woolen cloth and put them into the oven, where it is 
good and warm until they are all over their trembling before putting them 
in with their mother, when they will be good and hungry. See that they 
nurse before you leave them. 




"Grimsby Sample" by Grimsby Squire 



26 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

INTERESTING QUOTATIONS 

The following quotations will be of interest: 

Nothing in the world is more natural than the child's desire for pets. There are 
few children who do not early manifest a strong inclination for something to love, and 
this imperative desire, if fostered, becomes a powerful agency for the child's growth of 
character. Every little girl loves her doll, but often she becomes dissatisiied and 
longs for something alive, something which will return her caresses. A mother who 
has a growing family must do something to keep the little hands and minds busy, and 
at the same time out of mischief. Perhaps the mother is very busy, or if she gives 
the tnatter any thought, she may dislike animals and consider cats a nuisance, dogs 
noisy, birds a great care, rabbits destructive and white rats dirty. She may wonder 
why the children do not love their home and how it is they are always teasing to visit 
that home where the children have pets of various kinds, "a perfect menagerie," as she 
scornfully calls it. Alas! how many mothers and fathers cherish their selfish ease and 
consult their selfish convenience, without a thought of finding their highest enjoyment 
in the true development of their children. 

"Our first plea in favor of children owning pets is the desire for personal possession 
which every child has. The wish for something that shall belong exclusively to himself 
and be cared for by him. This care, this responsibility, can not fail to make a boy 
more manly and a girl more womanly. The thought for food and comfort of the little 
animals tends to develop all that is strong and tender in the child's nature. Show us a 
boy or girl that is cruel or brutal to animals and we will show you a child sure to come 
to some bad end; but the child who early learns kindness and gentleness to the brute 
creation will also manifest the same spirit toward his fellow creatures. 

"Children are, as a rule, fond of animals and by no means can kindness be so 
thoroughly inculcated in them as by the care of pets. 

"People who do not love animals have something seriously wrong in their constitu- 
tion. A great man once said, 'I would not give much for the man's religion whose dog 
and cat are not the better for it.' A man who kicks his dog and beats his horse will 
alDUse his wife and children. When you encourage a child in the care and gentle 
treatment of all creatures, you influence him to become a true gentleman or gentle- 
woman, and you give the world one who will expand in life and become a tender father 
and worthy citizen. Every child should know at an early age that sincere kindness in 
all relations of life is highest Christianity. * * * Allow the children a pet dog, be- 
cause dogs are so devoted, so intelligent, so faithful that they are ready to sacrifice 
their lives for those they love; allow them to have a pet cat, because cats return 
with interest all the petting and fondling they receive. If possible allow your boy the 
care of a horse and remember that a harsh word is often more cruel to a horse than a 
blow. Some writer has said, "A horse should be treated like a gentleman." All animals 
are God's creatures with an intelligence a little lower than our own; they are moreover 
dumb and helpless and should appeal to every noble-hearted person for protection. 
The curse of the world is heartlessness, selfishness and cruelty." 

* * * 

"Motives of kindness multiply when we consider the services of animal life. 
Animals are God's object lessons and the only object lesson in nature into which he has 
breathed the breath of life. Have you studied the child in its first contact with animal 
life? This is the first conscious appeal to moral nature for mercy and kindness. Here 
are the moral faculties in uniting the will of action. It is motive, will and action united 
that directs and forms moral character. Here are the appeals of the dumb animal, 
with its submissive nature, its dependent wants, its sense of suffering, its awakened 
fears, its voiceless pleadings, its timid trust, its divine instinct and the very silence of 
its responsive affections. 

"These are God's own appeals to kindness and conscience. If moral actions are 
started right, they shall rise. As surely as the vine will at the very beginning seek 
the earth or rise upon the trellis — as surely as the upright cannon shall send upwards, 
or the inverted hurled downward, so surely shall the child rise in kindness or sink into 
cruelty. And upon this the first service rendered to animals will moral qualities of life 
and eternity depend." 



TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 27 

Description of the True Type of Collie 

ADOPTED BY THE COLLIE CLUB OF AMERICA. 

EAD. — Skull flat, moderately wide between the ears and gradually tapering to the 
eyes. There should be but a very slight prominence of the eyebrows, and a very 
slight depression at the stop. 

The proper width of skull necessarily depends tipon the combined length of skull 
and muzzle; for what would be a thick or too broad a skull in one dog is not neces- 
sarily so in another of the same actual girth, but better supported by length of 
muzzle. It must also be considered in conjunction with the size of the dog and 
should incline to lightness accompanied by cleanness of outline of cheeks and jaws. 
A heavy headed dog lacks the bright, alert and full of sense look so much to be 
desired. On the other hand the attenuated head is most freqviently seen with small 
terrier eyes which show no character. 

Muzzle should be of fair length and tapering to the nose, which should be black; 
it must not show weakness or appear snipy. The teeth of good size and even. 
English Standard says, "Mouth the least bit overshot," but this is by no means 
desirable, and if at all exaggerated should be treated as malformation. 

YES. — There being no "brow" in which to set the eyes, they are necessarily placed 
obliquely; the upper portion of the muzzle being dropped or chiseled, to give them 
the necessary forward look out. They should be of medium size, never showing too 
light in comparison with the color of coat nor with a yellow ring. Expression full 
of intelligence, with a bright and "what is it" look when on the alert or listening to 
orders; this is, of course, largely contributed to by the throwing up of the ears 
which accompanies the "quivive" attitude. 

ARS. — The ears can hardly be too small if carried properly; if too small they are apt 
to be thrown quite erect or prick-eared; and if large they either cannot be properly 
lifted off the head, or, if lifted, they show out of proportion. When in repose the 
ears are folded lengthwise and thrown back into the frill; on the alert they are 
thrown up and drawn closer together on the top of the skull. They should be 
carried about three-quarters erect. A prick-eared dog should be penalized. So much 
attention having been given to securing very high carriage of ears, it has resulted 
in reaching the other extreme in some cases, and that is now necessary to guard 
against. 

lECK.— Should be muscular and of sufficient length to give the dog a fine up- standing 

appearance, and show ofif the frill which should be very full. 
ODY.— Rather long, ribs well rounded, chest deep, but of fair breadth behind the 

shoulders, which should have good slope. Loin slightly arched, showing power. 

,EGS.— Fore legs straight and muscular, with a fair amount of bone, the forearm 
moderately fleshy; posterns showing flexibility without weakness; the hind legs 
less fleshy, very sinewy, and hocks and stifles well bent. Feet oval in shape, soles 
well padded and the toes arched and close together. 

'AIL.— Moderately long, carried low when the dog is quiet, the end having an upward 
twist, or "swirl"; gayly when excited, but not carried over the back. 



28 TRAINING AND CARE OF COLLIES 

COAT. — This is a very important point. The coat, except on the head and legs, should 
be abundant, the outer coat harsh to the touch, the inner coat soft and furry and 
very close; so close that it is difficult on parting the hair to see the skin. The 
mane and frill should be very abundant. The mask or face smooth, the fore legs 
slightly feathered, the hind legs below the hocks smooth. Hair on tail very profuse, 
and on the hips long and bushy. 

COLOR. — Immaterial, though richly colored or nicely marked dog has undoubtedly a 
considerable amount of weight with judges — the black and tan with white frill and 
collar, or the still more showy sable with perfect white markings will generally win, 
other things being equal. 

SIZE. — Dogs 22 to 24 inches at the shoulder, bitches 20 to 22 inches. Weight, dogs 45 
to 60 pounds, bitches 40 to 50 pounds. 

EXPRESSION. — This is one of the most important points in considering the relative 
value of collies. "Expression," like the term "character," is difficult to define in 
words. It is not a fixed point as is color, weight or height, and is something the 
uninitiated can only properly understand by optical illustration. It is the combined 
product of the shape of the skull and muzzle, the set, size, shape and color of the 
eyes, and the position and carriage of the ears. 

GENERAL CHARACTER. — A lithe, active dog, with no useless timber about him, his 

deep chest showing strength, his sloping shoulders and well bent hocks indicating 
speed, and his face high intelligence. As a whole he should present an elegant and 
pleasing outline, quite distinct from any other breed, and show great strength and 
activity. 

FAULTS. — Domed skull, high peaked occipital bone, heavy pendulous ears, or the other 
extreme, prick ears, short tail, or tail curled over the back. 
The following scales of points are those adopted by the Collie Clubs of England and 

Scotland. Neither Club recommends point judging, the figures merely showing on 

which "properties" the greater stress is laid: 

ENGLISH SCOTTISH 

Head and expression 15 Head 15 

Ears 10 Eyes 5 

Neck and shoulders 10 Ears 10 

Legs and feet 15 Neck and shoulders 10 

Hindquarters 10 Body 10 

Back and loins 10 Legs and feet 15 

Brush 5 Brush or tail 5 

Coat will frill 20 Coat 20 

Size 5 Size and general appearance 10 

100 100 

MOORE'S TOXIN FOR DOG DISTEMPER 

One Hypodermic Injection for cure, or prevention. Price, $2. 00 
This agent has been on the market many years. Its record is its best rec- 
ommendation. Write for free literature. 

MIDDLE MASS. CHEMICAL CO. Palmer, Mass. 



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(Standardized) 

Insecticide and Germicide, Inexpensive-easy to use- Dependable 

It kills flees; prevents mange and other parasitic skin dis- 
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soft and silky. 

You can prevent contagious diseases among your dogs and 
keep the kennels clean and healthy by the free use of 

KRESO DIP NO. 1 

For Sale by all Druggists Write for Free Circulars 

Protect Your Dogs Against Canine Distemper ! ! 

Canine Distemper Vaccine will protect your dogs against 
infection and will cure them if they become infected if ad- 
minstered early enough. Consult your veterinarian and 
have him give preventive treatment before showing your 
dogs. Canine Distemper Vaccine cannot be successfully 
administered by any one but a competant veterinarian. 

PARKE, DAVIS & COMPANY 

Department of Animal Industry Detroit, Mich. 




SPRATT'S DOG CAKES 

Are known the world over for their Nutritive Onalities. Dogs fed on 
"SPRATT'S" thrive better, have finer coats and live longer. All the lead- 
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Spratt's Cod Liver Oil Cakes — Are invaluable for keeping the coat in 
condition, for old or delicate dogs or those recovering from illness. 

Spratt's Midget Biscuits — A dainty brown, crisp, biscuit. Can be fed 
with equal success to both large and small dogs. 

Send 2c stamp for "Dog Culture" which contains valuable information 
regarding kennel management, rearing, etc. 



SPRATT'S PATENT LIMITED 



Newark, N. J. 



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SOUTHERN KENNEL 

AND 
INDEPENDENT KENNEL REPORTER 

(The Dog Journal of tKe South. Est igio) 



We are editorially independent, imparial and 
interesting. Each issne is illustrated and con- 
tains valuable subjects covering the various 
breeds of dogs. Kennels news and advertise- 
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The only publication of its kind in the South, 
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Sample copy and advertising rates free upon 
request. 

The logical advertising medium to reach the 
Southern Dog Breeders and buyers, 

SOUTHERN KENNEL 

Norfolk, Va. 

Mention "Training and Care of Collies" and send us 25c in stamps 
yj^e will in return send you SOUTHERN KENNEL for 6 months. 



Man's Best Friend" 



^ SmitK's No Distemper Tablets pre- 
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Large Box $i.oo — 50 Tablets $.500 



SMITH TABLET CO. 

Hudson, Michigan 



FOR WORMS GIVE 

CLAYTON^S VERMIFUGE 

Either in Liquid Form, soft Capsules or Pills 

The pecular virtue of Clayton's Vermifuge is recognized by all dog fan- 
ciers. There is no other Vermifuge like it. 

CLAYTON'S VERMIFUGE (Liquid) is equally good for dogs of all ages and breeds, 
and is especially adapted for very young puppies. The treatment for worms in puppies 
should be commenced at 10 days old, as they have worms soon after birth. (Can be 
administered in capsules.) 

CLAYTON'S VERMIFUGE (Soft) CAPSULES is intended for puppies after they are 
six weeks old and for grown dogs. 

Where a pill is more easily administered there is nothing better than Clayton's 
Worm Pills. For puppies 6 weeks old and for grown dogs. 

Rid your puppies of worms and give them a chance to grow strong and healthy. 
CLAYTON'S MANGE REMEDY AND CLAYTON'S SKIN LOTION 
Are for every form of Skin Disease. They are to destroy all parasites, heal the skin 
and promote the growth of the hair. 

CLAYTON'S DISTEMPERINE AND TABLETS 
Are for all forms of Distemper. You need not fear Distemper when you have Clayton's 
Distemperine or Clayton's Distemperine Tablets. 

CLAYTON'S CONDITION PILLS WITH PEPSIN 

Are a reliable remedy for all run-down conditions of the nervous system, or after any 
constitutional disease. They are especially useful when convalescing from distemper. 
They are to make your dog eat and grow strong and healthy. 

USE CLAYTON'S CEOLINE DOG WASH AND DISINFECTANT 

For washing your dog and to disinfect your Kennel. It is an excellent disinfectant, 
deodorizer and germicide. 

FULL LIST OF CLAYTON'S DOG REMEDIES 

Clayton's Price Postpaid Clayton's Price Postpaid 

Mange Remedy SO 75 Eye Lotion Tablets— — 50 50 

Skin Lotion 50 75 Fit Remedy SO 60 

Hair Tonic 50 60 Fit Tablets 50 50 

Distemperine 50 60 Cough Remedy 50 60 

Distemperine Tablets 50 50 Sulphur Tablets 90 SO 

Condition Pills, Pepsin 50 50 Puppy Tonic 50 60 

Blood Purifying and Cooling Rheumatic Tablets 50 50 

Pills 50 50 Diarrhoea Remedy SO 60 

Digestive Tablet 50 50 Diarrhoea Tablets 50 SO 

Laxative Pills 50 SO Chorea Tablets 50 50 

Worm Pills SO 50 Goitre Remedy 1.00 1.00 

Tape Worm Expeller SO SO Ceoline Dog Wash and Disin- 

Vermifuge (Liquid) 50 60 fectant 25 35 

Vermifuge (Soft Capsules) 50 50 Shampoo 25 30 

Canker Lotion 50 SO Killflea Soap 25 30 

Canker Lotion Tablets .=0 60 Dog Soap 20 25 

Eye Lotion 50 60 Ceoline Dog Soap 10 15 

Clayton's Remedies are for sale by all Sporting Goods Houses, Drug Stores and Bird 
Stores. Send 2c stamp for Dr. Clayton's Treatise on the Dog, or ask your dealer for one. 

Manufactured by DR. GEO. W. CLAYTON, 1810 Wabash Ave. 



MONTHLY ALL DOGS 

The Dog Fancier 

Recognized as the Leading 
COLLIE DOG PAPER 

It contains each month a large amount of valuable, interesting and 
instructive matter, with illustrations, about all well known breeds. It con- 
tains more collie advertisements and news than can be found in all other 
kennel papers in America combined. 

ADVERTISERS get splendid results. The fact that its advertisers 
continue their patronage year after year, proves its value to them. It is 
read by more persons directly interested in dogs than any other publication 
in America. 

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE. If paid a year in advance, 50 cents. Is- 
sued the first of each month. Send stamp for sample copy. Address: 

EUGENE GLASS 

Battle Creek, Mich. Editor and Proprietor. 

THE FLEA EXTERMINATOR 

Prepared and for sale by the Editor of The Dog Fancier is the only 
known preparation that will positively remove fleas and ticks from dogs 
without injury to the coat or skin. Its price is 50 cents postpaid. Send 
all order to 

EUGENE GLASS, 
Editor Dog Fancier, Battle Creek, Mich. 

PEDIGREE BLANKS 

Five generations. Suitable for all kinds of live stock. Acknowledged 
to be the best on the market and at a very reasonable price. Size, 14x8j/2 
inches. Price — Plain Blanks, no advertisements on back, 15 cents per 
dozen, $1.25 per 100. Blanks with advertisements on back, 10 cents per 
dozen, 80 cents per 1 00, postpaid. We also have Certificates of Sale and 
Transfer blanks and also Certificate of Service blanks, at ten cents a dozen, 
postpaid. You will like them. Send all orders to 

EUGENE GLASS 
Editor of The Dog Fancier, Battle Creek, Mich. 



You Lose if You Do Not Read 

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leader among the papers devoted to 

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If you want a live, up-to-date Gun and Dog 
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for 

FIELD AND FANCY 

and get the report of Gun Shoot, Dog Show, 
Field Trials and all the news of the fanciers' 
world a week ahead cf all the other publications. 
Field and Fancy publishes more Collie news 
than all the other papers combined in this 
country. It is the Collie fancier's favorite. 

Sample Copies Upon Application 

10c a Copy $2.00 Tear 

Field & ¥ancy PublisKing Company 

187 Broadwav, NevJ York City 



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INDEX 



Breeding Bitches 15 

Care of Dams and Pups 16 

Diseases and Tlieir Treatment , 21 

Description of the True Typo of Collie 27 

How to Straighten Crooked Legs 12 

How to Malve Ears Stand Erect 12-13 

How to Train Pups 17 

How to Train to Walk Erect 18 

Housebreaking 18 

Herding 18 

Rules for Collie Field Trials 20 

Running Around, How to Cure Dogs From 20 

The Place for a Dog 21 

Treatment for Worms 17 

Training Collies 17-21 

To Train as a Watch Dog 19 

Teaching to Carry Basket 18 



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